Lunar Rabbitry
Did someone say Litter box?
All of our rabbits here are litter trained. I get asked all day how I litter train. Its really simple and makes clean up a breeze! By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their poo. Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit’s attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. While they do leave our rabbitry litter trained, they may need patience until they are used to their new homes. Dont get mad if you let them have a huge room and cant make it to the litter box in time. But Here are my tips to make litter training your bun bun a breeze, and less stinky!
So here is our set up. We have converted a 36 inch dog crate into a rabbit home! Every time we have someone visiting our rabbitry they are always surprised at how they cant even smell rabbits in our house! If you plan on letting your bunny have free roam of a room that is even better. Just be sure that the room is completely bunny proof. They will chew on carpet and any furniture. So be sure to provide lots of toys and keep all wires away!
I would also recommend to confine your new baby in a small play until you are sure they have mastered the litter box and slowly increase the amount of space they are allowed to have. If they happen to urinate far away from their litter box, simply place another litter box in that same spot and they should continue to use it.
When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox. Spaying and Neutering will help ease those hormones and give you a level headed bun bun, not to mention all the health benefits. But it is not absolutely necessary in order to fully litter train a bunny. Everyone here isn't fixed and they rarely miss their litter box!
One of the most important part of litter training, is having their food and water hanging over there litter box. They do most of their pooping while eating and tend to urinate after eating and drinking. We just bought a cheap storage tub that happened to fit perfectly in the crates. I clipped some wire to fit into litter boxes so they wont get their feet dirty and to help make the litter last a bit longer. They tend to want to dig in it, and that is a huge mess. I put a brick in my doe's box to help keep the wire up, with a rabbit and all of her babies in one spot eating will make the wire sag unevenly. But for just one or two rabbits it will be fine.
We highly recommend using equine pellets. Its roughly $6 dollars at your tractor supply for a 40 lb bag. It absorbs any odor! I only need to change their litter once a week, and I cant really smell anything unless I put my face really close!
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There are litters that can be quite dangerous to your rabbit. Clay and clumping litters are a huge no no. Clay litter is extremely dusty, wreaking havoc on your poor rabbit's respiratory system. Pneumonia can be life threatening. Not to mention the deodorant crystals are toxic. Clumping litter can cause serious stomach issues and blockages. Carefresh is safe, and dust free, but I have seen quite a few of my animals chewing on it. I recommend wire on the litter boxes to be on the safe side, its better to prevent any blockages that you can.
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Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out–for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda.
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All rabbits will drop poop around their cages to mark it as their own. This doesn't mean they aren't litter trained. All rabbits will poop around their cages to mark it as their own. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as their property so that when they leave the cage and play, they will avoid marking it.
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